Challenge: Helping Alice
It seems like everybody else enjoyed the $5,000 challenge (original challenge and results) as much as I did, so here's another used car listings challenge. The difference is that this one isn't just an intellectual challenge--we actually might help somebody out.
Car Lust reader Alice (not her real name) is 15 years old, has a $4,000 budget, and would really like a hatchback or a station wagon. She says she is a "hatchback fiend" and horror of horrors, says she has aesthetic tastes similar to mine. My most sincere condolences, Alice--I hope with counseling and medication, modern medicine has a solution for you. Alice has a set of needs but doesn't know exactly what to buy.
Here are her criteria:
"I'd really like a hatchback or station wagon, preferably small to mid sized. Every attempt I've made at driving a stickshift has been disaster, so automatic is the way to go for me. Experiences with a friend's Toyota Celica has made me hate 2-door cars, so those are a no-go.
"Most of my commuting in this car will be to school and back. This means the trunk-area of my car will have to be big enough to accommodate the bookbags of at least me, my sister, and a couple friends at random. I'm scared of driving too fast, so my car doesn't have to be able to break the sound barrier. With gas prices so high nowadays, high mpg is important.
"Also, I live out in the country. My car has to be able to make it the 35 miles to the closest movie theater, and the 75mi to the closest good mall without malfunctioning.
"Basically, I'd like a cool little vehicle that I can fall in love with. It's gotta be durable, zippy, and fun!"
Alice, we are here to help. Durable, zippy, and fun are three keys to Car Lust.
I think general advice would be fine for Alice, but personally I'm going to try to find some listings for her. She's in Reidsville, Ga.,* and so if you're going to find listings, try to keep them as close as possible to Reidsville. Her favorite local listings sites: Tell N' Sell and Craig's List in nearby Savannah.
Looking at a map, Macon, Augusta, and Savannah are all roughly equidistant from Reidsville, so anything in that radius should work. Atlanta is about three hours away, so unfortunately it's probably too distant. Those of us who like to use zip code searches can use 30453, which is Reidsville.
Since I'm a confessed listings junkie, this is a fun diversion, and the fact that we'd be helping get a 15-year-old off on the right track car-wise just adds frosting to the cake. Happy hunting!
* Because location is important for finding listings, I'm disclosing it; this is why I'm not giving out her real name.
--Chris H.
Cookie the Dog's Owner on May 21, 2008 at 12:03 PM
Alice, I found a couple of good prospects on eBay Motors within a 75-mile radius of you:
1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX hatchback in Screven, GA (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1995-MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-GSX-ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE_W0QQitemZ130222877241QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130222877241&)
Starting bid $3,000, might climb out of your budget range rather quickly.
2000 Honda Civic CX hatchback in Bluffton, SC(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___2000-Honda-Civic-Hatchback_W0QQitemZ120262165941QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item120262165941&)
Current bid $2,950, the auction closes in 5 hours so you'd better hustle! It's a Honda; use synthetic oil, change it every 3000 miles, and it'll run forever.
If you can't find the right hatchback, consider a small wagon as an alternative. I have a 1998 Escort wagon that is parked off to the side of the garage in anticipation of the day my oldest son (your age) gets his learner's permit.
(There's a '74 Pinto wagon coming up on eBay in your price range but--trust us older folks on this one--you don't want it!)
Rob the SVX guy on May 21, 2008 at 12:47 PM
Alice, no offense, but considering you only need to haul bookbags and maybe one other person, 2 doors are what you need. In fact, you don't even need a wagon.
And you hate sticks? It's called learning how to drive one. Becoming a good driver with a stickshift will reward you with better MPG than the automatic, greater control, faster acceleration, and better cruising RPMs. Plus boys will think you are cool.
Anyway, here's my suggestion: 1989 Honda Civic. Any kind. Hatch. Sedan. Whatever. Or even a honda accord. I have 265,000 miles on mine, runs great, and everything works. Buy a clean one for 2-3 grand, spend another grand on preventative maintenance, and drive for a few years without issues. Chances are you'll probably crash it anyways, so I suggest getting something awful for your first car.
Rob the SVX guy on May 21, 2008 at 01:02 PM
@ Cookie: ??? Dude. If you're using synthetic, which doesn't break down like normal oil, why would you change it every 3k?
Mochi Mochi on May 21, 2008 at 02:17 PM
I nominate: 2000 Suzuki Vitara - $3200 (Bloomingdale)...
Ok guys (rob) I don't think this classifies as an SUV - 4Doors, Auto Tran, reasonable milage, air bags
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/688930996.html
I'm writing and looking... so this may be a little disjointed. Turns out that if I include too many links I get blocked by a spam filter.
One thing to actually consider is a minivan! It's a hatch, and a wagon, easy to get into the back, lots of doors, some get pretty good mileage. I'll listed a 91 previa Toyota at the end of this article.
"Toyota Celica has made me hate 2-door cars" Don't let the Celica ruin you on all 2 door cars. That would rule out a civic hatchback. And that's a car you really need to think about. Civics are tough as nails, dependable, and fun to drive. Civic hatchbacks are cars you can use to move all your belongings... something you'll want to do - probably several times in the next few years. A 96 hatch civic could be perfect for you, and they are safe - air bags and all that.
There are a lot of great fun cars, I've been watching several VW Squarebacks and Fastbacks. But the challenges of these older cars - as lovely and fun as they are - is that they are delicate - not a safe car for a new driver - and their auto transmissions are not a smooth as newer cars.
I'm thinking either a GEO metro 4dr hatch or a Mazda (4dr hatch wagon). I'll do some more thinking. And see what I can come up with.
Learning to drive a manual transmission is a good thing. But you really do need to learn how to do it right or the consequences are not so great for you, your check book , or the car. Burned out clutches and throw out bearings are the side effect. If that's too much then get the automatic and just make sure you check the AutomaticTransmissionFluid (ATF) at regular intervals.
There are a lot of cars out there that would be fine commuter vehicles, which are also safe and fun to drive. My recommendation is don't limit yourself to a specific number of doors, or a hatch/wagon.
1991 Toyota Previa mini van. Sell/Trade - $2300 (Statesboro)
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/669405789.html
Mochi Mochi on May 21, 2008 at 02:19 PM
more cars for Alice:
Honda Accord! (these are great cars - very solid)
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/648448947.html
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/680145221.html
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/681610893.html
purple accord ?
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/687296110.html
Mochi Mochi on May 21, 2008 at 02:25 PM
88-2000 Honda Civic (Hatch or sedan - or wagon if you are lucky enough to find one)
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/637266355.html
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/668053317.html
Mazda 323 or 626
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/675832694.html
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/659204009.html
Mochi Mochi on May 21, 2008 at 02:27 PM
Geo Prizm !!!! (no hatch but 4 dr Auto - buy two and keep one as a backup or small apartment)
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/689189034.html
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/676156148.html
Mazda Mx3
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/676911981.html
Ford Focus (submitted with reservations)
2002 FORD FOCUS!!!!!!!!!! - $4000
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/659630646.html
John Bono on May 21, 2008 at 02:36 PM
If you are going to get a wagon, get a wagon!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1978-Mercury-Colony-Park-Wagon-Ford-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ140234534508QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140234534508&
Nice 1978 Mercury Colony Park, fake wood sides, and everything.
As for durability, heck, you can run right through one of them dinky Smarts and the only way you'll know you hit anything is when you find you have a new hood ornament.
Cookie the Dog's Owner on May 21, 2008 at 02:41 PM
Rob: On a used car, where I can't be sure that the previous owner(s) followed proper scheduled maintenance, I overkill on the oil changes.
John Bono: That's not a station wagon, that's real estate! There are a couple of countries in West Africa smaller than that beast.
on May 21, 2008 at 06:46 PM
Helloes, thanks to everyone so far for helping out. You guys found some excellent first-cars for me! Thank you all. Among the ones posted so far, here are some of the ones I plan on looking into more.
'92 Honda Accord
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/648448947.html
Appears to be in fine shape, and looks good. :)
'95 Honda Accord (The purple one!)
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/687296110.html
Quite kooky - that's why I like it.
'96 Mazda 626
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/659204009.html
This one's gorgeous, for $2500. It's apparently had a lot of components replaced, though.. hmm...
'96 Geo Prizm
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/689189034.html
This car looks solid, but I've heard that Geo's are bad news. Is this true? I'm quite fond of the look of the Geo Tracker, but my dreams were killed when people told me about how bad they are. :( Any input from you guys? Also - $1400, how could I not consider it? :)
'95 Geo Prizm
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/676156148.html
Same deal with this one. Looks very promising, but I'd like to know if what I've heard is true or not. :)
Lastly...
'78 Mercury Colony Park
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1978-Mercury-Colony-Park-Wagon-Ford-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ140234534508QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140234534508&
Holy crap, what an AWESOMEEEEE CARRRRR. :O If it weren't in North Dakota, I'd be all over that thing. Absolutely gorgeous! It's more or less what I had in mind, regarding wagons, in the beginning. If anyone could find me something along these lines locally, I'd be their best friend forever.
Also! I think I may have given the wrong impression in a part of my description. I failed to mention that these random friends and I - just about all of us are in marching band. Unfortunately, most of my good friends play BIG instruments. My sister and a friend of ours both play the tuba. I play the mellophone (not a particularly big instrument, but the case is about the size of a typical luggage case). To finish it off, my best friend plays bass drum. :D Though I love sporty little cars, some trunks just aren't tall enough to fit some instrument cases.
Thank you all again for your help - keep these suggestions coming please! :)
And, a special thanks to Rob - I do want to learn stick, plenty of good reasons for it. Your presumptuous yet blunt post gave me the push to practice driving my dad's manual truck. So thank you, whether you intended for post to be productive or not. :)
Mochi Mochi on May 21, 2008 at 08:31 PM
Ford Colony Park? Seriously... the only way that makes sense is with pneumatic suspension and an under-car lighting system. And the gas mileage - hootmahnn ! (why did I say that?) At $4 per gallon and a student? I just don't think so. Cookie's right, this is a land-mass of epic proportions. Though it is kind of cool:) and if you take the money extra money and put it into gasoline you'd be able to run it for a few weeks.
But look at the economics : At 30 miles of driving per day in a car that gets maybe 12-15 mpg you are going to be paying $8-10 per day. So say $70/week, or $3640 per year. We really need to be looking at cars that can get upwards of 27mpg.
The challenge is a hatch or a station wagon, good gas milage (!), and safety, fun to drive, reliable, four doors, and an automatic. Pull any one of those and you can easily find the right car. Oh and it should be something loveable - even harder to do. The Suzuki Vitara at $3200 seems like a pretty good bet - annual fuel costs would be about $2420. An early Honda CRV would be really nice too - but most people don't want to part with them. As an alternative I'd try to find a late 80's accord with a hatch- 2door only.
I did see a nice 1988 jeep wagoneer - $4000. (I'm sure the gas consumption is an issue though).
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/642086501.html
Brian on May 22, 2008 at 12:39 AM
Re that 1978 Mercury wagon, just look at it! It's pristine! Oh if only sports cars and hot hatches were taken care of like that. I'd be willing to take bets that it could get slightly over 20 Mpg on a flat, long stretch of interstate. Of course, it'd be totally bad everywhere else though. So, Alice ought to get the best car she can afford, and for $4000 it's going to be a used car. For that kind of money any hot hatch, 2-door, or sports car is probably going to need work. So lets consider cars that could possibly be in the shape that wagon is, i.e. "boring" cars. A Volkswagen, Honda, or Toyota sedan seems like a sure bet for reliability and low operating costs, however, the catch is that most $4000 cars are still going to need parts and work down the line, and import parts are more difficult and expensive to manage. Course, if she is doing the work herself then it's not that big of a deal, which I think she should, because everyone should work on their own car to save money and cut down on the junkers filling up landfills. Anyhoo, the Ford Taurus sedan is dirt cheap, parts are dirt cheap, it's as reliable as a sunrise, and gets over 27 MPG on the highway. You should be able to get a mint condition Taurus for under $4000.
Brian on May 22, 2008 at 12:48 AM
I think this one is good, a 1997 with a rebuilt engine, $2000:
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/673407049.html
This one has 102K miles, which shouldn't be a deal breaker for UNDER $3500:
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/662805404.html
This one is fully loaded, 2000 FORD TAURUS SES - $2900
http://savannah.craigslist.org/car/636380341.html
Some of these might be scams, who knows? But then, you're buying a used car for under $4000, so, what, caveat emptor? Otherwise you could use the cash for a down-payment on a new Toyota Camry, but then you're talking high cost paying back the loan and full insurance.
OldCarGuy on May 22, 2008 at 06:42 AM
John Bono: If you are going to get a wagon, get a wagon!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1978-Mercury-Colony-Park-Wagon-Ford-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ140234534508QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140234534508&
Oh baby, come to Papa . . . that brings back memories. Living room on wheels, floats along, handles like a sled, wow . . . why do I want it??? ;-)
Mochi Mochi on May 22, 2008 at 08:53 AM
My rule of thumb with a used car is that you really have to budget in a certain amount of money for "unexpected repairs" in the first year. I would set aside something like $500-$800. Invariably an alternator or something similar goes.
The formula for exactly how much to set aside varies with vehicle maker and milage. If you buy a civic sedan - Which is an excellent option since they are easy to find, reliable, and have not been set up as "racing project cars" - at 120,000-130,000 you will need to replace the alternator. Since Honda reliability is predicated on the quality of OEM components, buy a new Honda alternator and you wont have to replace it for another 130K. It will set you back $500.00 with labor. But if you buy after-market or remanufactured you'll save only a few dollars then you'll need to replace it again in about 2 years. For certain kinds of cars its best just to buy the EOM and get the best reliability on some critical and expensive parts. If you buy the lovely Mercury Land Yacht don't worry - buy any alternator and you wont see a significant loss of reliability.
I replaced 2 generators in my 72 VW Squareback. I replaced 3-4 alternators in my 79 BMW 320i. Those were rebuilds. German cars don't have great electrical reliability. They were all replaced before the each car had 110,000 miles. I made the rebuild mistake on a Civic once. Ever after that I've used Honda OEM alternators, and have had no problems of repeated alternator failures. Which reminds me it has been about 120K since the last replacement of an alternator... I guess I need to be on watch.
The merc wagon is in amazing shape. I too am strangely drawn to it. As Brian said " if only sports cars and hot hatches were taken care of like that". The Taurus is a nice option too. If you could find a wagon it would be largish but good.
Brian on May 22, 2008 at 09:31 PM
I agree with you about OEM repairs, or upgrades if feasible. And I agree about German electrical engineering. But I think that a properly maintained Taurus can go just as far as a Honda or Toyota, for lower operating cost.
Rob the SVX guy on May 23, 2008 at 06:08 AM
I don't know what you guys are talking about, when you're complaining about expensive parts. Maybe for german cars, but parts for older hondas are dirt cheap. I get everything at www.rockauto.com if I can, just the other day I scored rear rotors for $9.50 each, and fronts for $13 each. Pads were $16 and $23, respectively. Honda parts are NOT expensive. And if you want OEM quality for an even cheaper price, just grab a used example from a yard.
Rob the SVX guy on May 23, 2008 at 08:45 AM
Cookie: Changing synthetic every 3k is just being wasteful. It won't break down at all in 3k miles, and synthetic offers no more protection than normal oil when both are working properly. The advantage to synthetic is longer intervals between changes, since it does not break down.
Mochi Mochi on May 23, 2008 at 09:07 AM
I'm not actually complaining about the cost of Honda OEM parts. The real issue is that component parts like alternators are designed and constructed to tolerances that vary with manufacturer. The durability of these parts is rated based on expected life-time in milage. Some, like Honda and Toyota, require important components to have life expectancy ratings in excess of 100K miles. That is how Honda and Toyota achieve the high reliability standards for their cars.
Remanufactured or after-market parts are not required to meet the same standards. If the part is not critical to the operation of the vehicle - great get aftermarket or rebuilt. But if you get an aftermarket or rebuilt part like an alternator, then you are getting a part that does not have the same durability rating that the OEM part had. As a result the overall reliability of the car will degrade. And the money you think you are "saving" by getting the less expensive alternator... well you are going to have to replace it several times over the same 100k miles. So you are not really saving money - and the car has become less reliable. If you do the work yourself then you save on labor, but you'll be spending more time making repairs. To me time is money, and I just don't like having cars breakdown.
For some things like rotors or other high wear components, the costs tend to be lower to begin with and the increase rate of wear is harder to track. They wear, rather than fail. But when it comes to things like calipers and mastercylinders... I'd be a bit more careful.
Used parts can be "cheap". For some things that don't really have life expectancies I'll go that route. But lets look at the math. If an alternator has a 100k life rating, and you get one off a car that has 80K on the odometer, then you can expect to replace that part in 20k miles.
Some components are affected by regular maintenance. Things that need lubing - cv joints, suspension, your engine - keep them lubed they will last for a very long time. Other parts that are critical to operation of the car - electric components, fuel pumps, alternators, starter motors, etc - have life ratings, and no amount of maintenance will help them last longer. You can't lube a fuel pump. It goes when its life rating is met - x number of years or miles down the road.
About 80K ago, I had a lot of parts replaced in my car. Every single part that was aftermarket or rebuilt failed in 30-40K. Some of them failed in really unfortunate locations... like 150 miles from the nearest cell tower on a desolate stretch of coastal highway with a cliff on one side (dropping into the ocean) and a cliff on the other side (rising up to a mountain.)
My experience with German cars is that their parts reliability is no better than US components. They have roughly the same life rating. To a large extent that's what keeps US and German vehicles from being as reliable as better Japanese cars.
So can a Taurus go as far as a Honda or Toyota? Yes. We're not talking about engines here. US and German engines can last a long time - generally speaking they are very good. Especially if driven carefully and maintained correctly wear will be reduced and the engine will last. But as cars age they become "less reliable", this occurs as secondary but important parts, reach their life rating. The Taurus will require more replacement of these parts over 200K. If you use used or aftermarket replacements, then you will change those parts more often.
Sometimes parts prices are high because its from Mercedes - and therefore just expensive with no actual improvement in quality. Sometimes increased parts prices are based on high durability and quality of parts. I don't mind paying a bit more for OEM parts. It increases the chances that I'll have a trouble free 100k, and I'll "save" by not having to replace parts as often. I also like to avoid the headache of being stranded in the middle of a desert - one of the other places I go.
I'm planning on ordering a new OEM alternator soon. I'll keep it in the trunk until I need it.
Chris Hafner on May 23, 2008 at 09:27 AM
Ah, we're discussing where to buy auto parts. At the risk of sounding like a shill, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that my employer and the company that makes this blog possible also sells auto parts (www.amazon.com/auto). My day job is helping to build and improve that store.
Anyway, shilling over.
In some quarters, the OE vs. aftermarket parts debate is like a holy war--with matching levels of passion and dogmatism. I've worked on both sides of the industry and can say that most OE parts are made by companies that also sell aftermarket parts--i.e. Denso, Delphi, AC Delco, Akebono, etc. There are aftermarket parts that meet or exceed OE specs and cost less. But there are also cheap and terrible aftermarket parts out there - mostly no-name corner-cutting things. Most quality repair shops that I've worked with don't use brands they dont know; they either buy OE through the dealer, or from the major, high-quality aftermarket brands because they don't want to have to pay for a free replacement if a cheap part fails.
I think the issue isn't so much that aftermarket parts are inferior to OE parts, as much as it is that OE parts give you the assurance that you're no better or worse off than when the car was new. You pay for that assurance, but there is a value there. But if you buy good aftermarket parts, you're not necessarily substituting quality for a short-term price break.
The key to buying the right parts is to do your homework and not necessarily buy the cheapest part - just like you'd do if you were buying a new TV or, heck, a new car.
Mochi Mochi on May 23, 2008 at 05:09 PM
When we are talking about spark plugs and wires, shocks, tires, wiper blades, light bulbs, brake pads, rotors, air/oil filters... basically high turn over, short lived parts, After Market (A.M.) parts are A-Ok by me. These things do not generally have great affect on reliability - as long as you buy from quality A.M. Makers: Bosch, Nippon Denso, NGK, AC. All roughly equivalent.
Chris: "OE parts give you the assurance that you're no better or worse off than when the car was new."
That's a great point. And if your new car has relatively poor reliability then A.M. parts might actually improve reliability. Older Engllish cars would be a great example. But if you have a car like a Honda or a Toyota your new car reliability is stellar, you would not want to compromise that by replacing with a questionable A.M. part, where critical parts are concerned.
I'm not talking about door handles or mirrors or spark plugs. I'm talking distributors, alternators, fuel pumps, calipers, starter motors, and water pumps. Get the best parts you can. As it happens Honda and Toyota parts for these kinds of critical areas are just better than after market. They are better than most other OEM parts. It's not the pixie dust the robots sprinkle on the cars as they roll down the assembly line that results in high durability and reliability. Its all about fine tolerances and superior standards for quality control in parts and assembly.
When a person takes their car to their local mechanic they can't research the parts that are going into the car. And most A.M. tune up parts are fine as long as they come from a reputable maker. But local mechanics - unless they are specialists - rarely have time to track the reliability of certain low volume critical parts. When I'm not doing the actual work, I buy the OEM parts and give them to my mechanic to install. In some cases I even go to a dealer that I trust for certain special cases. There are cases when a dealer shop really is the best option.
Remanufactured electrical parts are in my opinion a gamble at best. If you have to get them - ok. But quality control on these things is really spotty. Most mechanics I know understand this.
The exception to the rule here is a rebuilt engine or transmission. You can rebuild engines and transmissions to better than OEM, but it will cost you. Basically you need to make sure that the rings, seals, valves, etc are OEM or better.
In airplane manufacture everything is rated in hours - even the airframe. Each part is expected to fail after a certain number of hours and cycles. And there are FAA mandates on this. Parts need to be replaced, airplanes need to be retired... or they will fall from the skies. We don't have those rules on the road. We have chaos and the auto industry. For the most part, cars have improved their reliability and durability over the past 30 years. Most parts give you some warning before failure (except the electrical ones). The majority of failures result in a call to Triple A. Cars are pretty well engineered to fail in non-critical manners.
I look at it this way. If you have a reliable durable car (when new), then when parts are replaced you want to use the best quality most durable parts - those parts that offer highest reliability for critical operations. Otherwise you're just going to need to replace them all over again and deal with Triple A. If your car is unreliable when new, well you're kind of screwed. So try non-OEM parts, they may help out - or at least wont make things too much worse... But if you're running a Honda or Toyota, wouldn't you want it to be as reliable and durable as it was when new? It's not that hard to do. And the extra cost is balanced by reduced downtime, and lower labor costs of replacing things more frequently. Practically everything in a car will eventually fail - the questions are "how often?" and "when?". It would be great if there was a life rating stamped on parts - something like "rated for 100,000 miles" - we do it for tires. And the manufacturers actually have the data if they don't you don't want to be buying their parts.
winstonzane on May 26, 2008 at 06:22 AM
Hi
Thanks for useful info here for some amazing technical support and know-how. Glad to read articles like this.
Dzo
Ken on May 27, 2008 at 01:23 PM
I don't know if there is any in the girl's area, but a Ford Focus wagon (ZXW) should be right up her alley.
They are good handling, good on mileage, and generally reliable.